To St. Anthony, NLAug 19, 2006
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To St. Anthony, Newfoundland - 210 Miles - August 19, 2006
We were encouraged to get an early start today, not because of distance, but rough road conditions. Don was lucky that Art was alert when Don left the campground and noticed the toads wheels didn't seem to be rolling right. Don didn't hear a CB call, but stopped at a gas station about 1/2 mile from the park, where we caught up with him. His tracks into the gravel lot didn't look like the wheels were in park, but seemed to make more of a track than normal. Turned out his steering lock had activated and the wheels rolled ok, but didn't steer. Lucky break as it would have probably badly damaged the tires during the trip.
My belief that Newfoundland only had yellow moose on road signs was trashed today. Within 5 miles we had a cow moose cross the highway in front of us. Just a brief glimpse at a fair distance, but obviously a moose. All doubt was erased 10 miles later when what appeared to be a dark bridge abutment walked slowly across the road as we got closer - a large bull moose with a big rack. He then trotted beside us in the ditch by the road until we passed on ahead of him. Yes, the camera was in the back of the MH, but Dick & Carleen following just behind us also got a good view of him.
The road was not as bad as we had been led to believe. At least 30 miles of it had been newly paved within the last week or so. On the other hand, it had plenty of frost heaves and bone jarring bumps left in the older parts. One was particularly bad. A small bridge had 20-30 feet on each end being prepared for repaving. They must have expected the truck with the paving material very soon as they had cleared the edges to vertical walls 3-4 inches high. It was like going over a curb, and the MH wheels were going over the front cut while the toads wheels were dropping over the cut behind. Really rearranges things in the RV cabinets!
It was a beautiful drive with the rocky ocean beaches dotted with small fishing villages (some of them appeared to be just improved camps) on the left and low - 6 to 10 foot high - forests on the right. Early on the right side had small bald mountains (trees to near the top and then smooth bare rock tops) which gradually changed to flat plains. It it had just had a pipeline it could have passed for the Big Delta area in Alaska. Rain threatened the entire way, but never hit us. Fenced "victory gardens" were seen frequently along the edge of the road. Apparently the small homes in the villages are on such rocky terrain there is no place for a garden, and the dirt scraped off to the sides to pave the road is the best availble. The gardens contain mostly root crops - potatoes, carrots, turnips; and lettuce. We also saw huge piles of wood stacked alongside the road. Residents get permits to cut wood and just stack it by the road until needed. We're told taking someone else's wood here is the equavilent of "stealing a horse in Texas" - it just isn't done.
The "homes" are mostly small square boxes, some as small as 200 square feet in size. Most look recently painted and stand out starkly as the remainder of the lot is usually bare. I'm guessing quare is probably the most heat retaining design. It was obvious that making a living got steadly more challenging as we traveled north. Can't grow much to eat, and meat is limited to what can be caught or shot. Winter lasts for 8-9 months. The fishing seasons are so short that not much cash is generated to purchase the expensive food and goods imported to NL. Industry is not existant. The future is not bright.
After getting set up in the RV park we drove 5 miles to the town/village of St. Anthony. Some sun peeked through and we got some photos of the lighthouse and surrounding seashore. No whales or icebergs, but we're told they are oftn seen: except no icebergs this year. Would you believe it even has a Gift Shop nearby? We then came back through town and stopped at the "Mall" (about 5 small stores and two eating places)and Grocery store. You could find enough to ward off starvation, but the selection was meager. A dozen or more young people, mostly boys, were "hanging out" by the door to the Mall the entire time we were there - obviously very bored and with nothing interesting to do. A good analogy to describe the town would be the line from an old Aussie song: "A pub with no Beer".
After supper a "Moose Excursion" was scheduled. Jim showed up at the bus primed for a Moose Hunt with cammie clothes and his camo marshmallow gun. It was mostly an hour and a half bus ride. Near the end of the ride we did have a Bull Moose cross the road, and stop in the middle. Unfortunately, a car was coming the other way and spooked it into the brush. I got a photo through the bus windshield, but the lights of the approaching car turned it into a silhoutte. Later we saw a couple of others at long distances.
After returning to camp Sally, Jim, Don, & I walked down to the lake where Moose sign had been seen. We did see a cow Moose across the lake, but it was nearly dark and a several hundred yards away. I got one fair photo. Walking back we encountered the parks Killer Rabbit. The photos I got were completely dark but I was able to pull a photo of this ferocious Newfie animal thru the magic of software.
