Loreto – Super Bowl, Clambake and Internet - Feb 4, 2008

Mexico 1 climbed once again, whisking us away from the beautiful sand beaches of Bahia Concepcion. Looking back down the bay as we drove to Loreto, shades of blue and mountainous islands were visible for miles in the clear air. One after another of the famed bay beaches, photographed by many, passed below us as we climbed. On some beaches, only one RV could be seen on the lustrous white sand. The tourist trade has been down this year. These beaches are usually packed with snowbirds and caravans.

Hills with interesting patterns kept my interest as I tried to look forward to Loreto where we had heard there was a large American population. As we approached the city, layered mountains in the distance were each painted a different color by haze, sun and shadows. They were just lovely. Loreto boasts the airport from which Cameron had left and, as we approached the city, the blue sky was streaked with white clouds and jet contrails making for a beautiful sky ahead. The ever-present cardon cacti filled the fields and climbed the slopes of the mountains. Some, spindle like, looked as though they had been turned on a lathe.

We approached the military checkpoint about which Carol had warned us. When she had passed earlier in the week, they had asked her to leave the car and had inspected it. Our passage on Sunday, however, was uneventful. The federales whose presence was sparse simply waved us on. Perhaps they were all out voting since it was Election Day down here or, maybe they were all preparing to watch The Super Bowl. Actually, it is clever of them to make elections on a Sunday when everyone can go and vote. They don’t permit the sale of alcohol, other than in restaurants, the day before and the day of elections. Interesting law that one.

After arriving in Loreto at Loreto Shores RV Park, where the Loreto Shores American community has built homes on the water (having lived here for 20 years), Carol promptly located those going to a super bowl party and determined where it was. Augie’s, an American owned bar was hosting a party down at the waterside. After finally finding the bar, we joined the rest of the mostly American gang, enjoyed the buffet and half price drinks, and left Carol in their trusty hands while Ken and I were off to explore the town.

We wandered past the polling booths and watchers down at the square, checked out a local ice cream parlor which was packed and required us ordering cones in broken Spanish as we waited with a big crowd all chattering and ordering. With ice cream in hand, or rather in mouth, we strolled through the historic section of Loreto admiring the architecture, the 1752 mission, and even cars covered in the ever present layer of dust and mud. In the historic district, some streets were paved in cobblestones. A small elegant, but earthy looking hotel sat in the downtown square.

The natives here and in other towns in which we’ve stayed remind me of the Alaskan natives we met last summer. No wonder, since the ancestors of both migrated during the haze of prehistory, crossing the Bering Land Bridge. The Mexican peoples’ ancestors journeyed down the Baja peninsula to its end in Los Cabos, stopped finally by the ocean. These groups have different names – Pericues, Guaycuras and Cochimies – ones with which we are not familiar. Later, the riches of the Baja, gold and pearls drew the Spaniards who, in wave after wave attempted to colonize. According to local history, the weather, lack of water, hostile natives and overwhelming Sierra de la Giganta – those humongous mountains we keep seeing, defied the would-be colonizers. It was not until an unpresumptuous and dedicated Jesuit missionary came in 1697 that a non-native foothold was established. The mission of Loreto became the first of many and Loreto the Capital of the Californias (from the latin calida-fornax meaning hot furnace).

After admiring seven puppies and talking with their owner (one of those natives), we found our way back to Augie’s. Carol, still deeply engrossed in the game, decided to get a lift back with the crew from Loreto Shores. This was fortunate because she got us invited to a clambake the following night. Meanwhile, at the campground, the internet was delightful – quick and a great signal- probably because everyone else was at a game party. Ken and I got lots done.

The following day, Carol and I got haircuts (exceptionally good, to my relief), we bought one paddle for our inflatable kayak (they did not have two as desired), shopped at the supermarket, and just hung out waiting for the clambake. It was great, with a huge amount of clams, shucked on a homemade device that made it very efficient. Grilled on the barbecue in the shell, they were truly delicious.

It was quite interesting talking with the folks who have been living in Loreto for years. One told us about their new building that is being constructed in town where they will be renting apartments to vacationers. It is all about being in the right place at the right time and 20 years ago certainly was the right time down here.

We learned that some Mexican property is leased like that at Loreto Shores. The folks in the Loreto Shores Association have a long-term lease, renewable and able to be passed on to children and grandchildren. The association members get the income from the RV park and enjoy all the benefits of living in a lovely spot, right on the water, at a very low rental rate for the property. One woman told me they pay $600/year. Not bad. But, all in all, I liked the serene beach better, so when we were off to our next stop in quiet San Carlos, on Bahia Magdalena, and possibly more whales, I was content.