World New Zealand Arthur's Pass National Park

Backpacking Pensioners

Christchurch to Arthurs Pass to Oxford South Island 22 and 23 February 2008 4 Mar 2008

Jeff

After reclaiming our van and conversing with the Jayco Dealer and his wife, (lovely helpful people), we set off to drive the 90 or so miles to Arthurs Pass, the first 30 of which was through the plains of Canterbury. Once we reached Waddington along the SH 73 we were soon passing the Russell Range of hills on our left and other hills to our right. It was a thrill to be amongst the hills and heading for the mountains again.

Eventually after a hairpin bend we were climbing high along the winding road which was clinging to the hill side. When we reached Porters Pass which is 3,079 feet above sea level, we travelled along in the direction of the next saddle between the hills to take us through to the next plain. The hill ranges were constant and all around us and we past several signs directing to the many ski areas; it was a wonderful journey. Whilst travelling through the Castle Hill Basin we came across unusual rocks on the hills to our left, and found we were at Kura Towhiti Conservation Area. We parked alongside other vehicles whose occupants were already walking amongst the boulders and went towards the strange limestone formations.

A notice stated, 'Limestone is formed from layers of organic sediment deposited in deep oceans far from land. The resulting rocks can eventually end up hundreds of metres above sea level during periods of mountain building'. We must have spent over an hour walking between and to the top of the rocks, over the back and round between cliffs and back to the van. At a restricted area there was a notice stating, 'The Castle Hill Basin once supported a Totara Forest which has now gone. Amongst the many birds that lived here was the now endangered roroa, (great spotted kiwi)'. The Department of Conservation along with the local Maori Tribes, is attempting to re-establish a roroa forest to provide a canopy for endangered local plants and the birds which used to populate this area. Good luck to them in their attempt.

The journey continued through superb scenery and at last we arrived at the village of Arthurs Pass, the highest altitude town in New Zealand; 2 ½ miles from the top of the 3,028 feet high pass which bares its name. At the DOC site alongside the railway station amongst the campers was a group of 23 Motorhome Club members travelling in 12 vans. They were on a walking tour and two of the members were pleased to speak with us and be given the tour of our van. After meeting our neighbours we went to explore. It was too late for the Information Office so we walked the small town, looking in at the 'Interfaith Chapel' to view the waterfall cascading down behind the alter window.

In the early 1980's surveyors were searching for a pass from east to west after the discovery of gold on the west coast. After much evaluation, one of them stated, "There is none better than the pass my brother Arthur found". Arthur Dobson and his helpers had found their way over the saddle between the hills in 1864, and using rods, ropes and machetes climbed down and into the valley.

Creating a road through the highly unstable scree slopes of the pass in the 1860's was an enormous 18 month undertaking. Partly following an existing goldminers' track, the new road was designed for horse-drawn coach traffic. It officially opened in 1866. The scenic, adventurous, hair-raising Otira coaching era continued until 1923 when the opening of the Otira rail tunnel meant that passenger trains could travel all the way from Christchurch to the west coast. Until 1999 when the Otira Viaduct was completed, the road went high zig zaging along the hillside after going over the top of the pass; the horse drawn coach travellers used to have to walk the last three miles to the top.

There was heavy rain during the night and although we were aware of this it surprisingly does not spoil our sleep. Our plans to do some of the local walks, (not the one to the near by mountain summit), were shelved as the tracks would not be nice and walkers must take extreme care in this area; conditions can change very quickly and locator beacons can be hired. After breakfast we attended at the Tourist Centre, viewed the exhibits and watched the 17 minute video on the history of Arthurs Pass before driving over the pass.

Our first stop was at the lookout for the 1442 feet long Otira Viaduct which was opened in 1999, cutting out the old high winding road from the top of the pass. The viaduct has a 1 in 9 gradient, and parts of the road down the pass are 1 in 6. If you want to see a Kea, (mountain parrot), this lookout is the place to be. They can be very naughty and destructive and I had to chase one off the top of our van before it began to dismantle some of the workings, but it was great to see so many. I'm not sure they appreciated us laughing at there wet and dishevelled appearance on this drizzly morning.

A little way below the viaduct we stopped at another view point. This overlooked the place where the road is attached to the hillside. At this point a funnel takes a waterfall over the road, and a roof ensures falling rocks clear the road and fall into the valley. After travelling the most dramatic part of the road we stopped for lunch where the railway line meets the road again and accompanies it almost all the way to Greymouth. In our blog of the 26 September 2007 I documented our enjoyment of the Tranz Alpine train journey from Christchurch to Greymouth which travels the route of Arthurs Pass. As we had no further desire to visit Greymouth again we set off back, travelling this lovely route in reverse, and enjoying it a second time.

We stopped for a coffee break at Lake Pearson where we met up again with the twelve motorhome club vans from last night. They had been on a morning walk and set up camp early for the night, many of them having washing strung out on lines. We did not arrive in time to see if they had done there washing by beating it against stones on the lake side. Probably not, Lake Pearson is a special place as it is one of the few homes of the 'Southern Crested Grebe/Kamana', a kind of duck. The New Zealand population is approximately 250 and it is fully protected and a threatened species. Unfortunately for us, while we were there the birds had flown.

At Castle Hill Basin where thousands of years of weathering by wind and water have shaped the most resistant limestone rocks into castles and ramparts which give the basin its name, we stopped to have a look at a cave system we had noted on our way to Arthurs Pass. We walked to the exit where Cave Stream has hollowed out the cave system for a distance of 1,187 feet before emerging to join Broken River. Those wishing to walk through the cave should do so in groups, each with a torch, and be prepared to wade through water and climb water courses and waterfalls. We waved one group goodbye, (it is best to go through the caves upstream), before walking across country to look at the streams entrance to the cave system.

We travelled on to Waddington where we turned north along the scenic route alongside the hill range towards Oxford, and at this point we turned north again towards Ashley Gorge where we planned to spend the night at a camp site. Whilst driving along we past a sign for a Park Over Property, (a POP site), and phoned the owner who said she would be pleased for us to visit. Another couple from the Motorhome and Caravan Club was with her and they were already enjoying 'happy hour'; and 5 minutes later so were we.

The POP site was nestled against a high hill and wild goats could be seen near the top. Although the weather had started out dismal this morning, and had not improved on the west side of the town of Arthurs Pass, within a few miles travel on the east side we had been treated to a nice though windy day. The evening proved to be the best part of the day weather wise, and our POP site was a lovely place to end 2 days of wonderful scenery.