We were fortunate to get a RV site at Elmendorf Air Force Base outside of Anchorage, because this is another FamCamp that does not accept advance reservations. They have about 60 sites and had around 10 open when we arrived. Their sites are surrounded by trees, have water, electric, picnic table and grill, but they use a central dump area so we’ll have to dump once during our 11 day stay. Having electric makes Julieann VERY happy – now she can use her electric blanket and heating pad again (we’re still not used to this cold weather – average temp here is 64 during the day, in the high 40’s-low 50’s at night).
They use a “self assign” system at the FamCamp where you pick your site, put the payment (cash or check) into an envelope and then the envelope into a metal box. Since I wanted to use my MasterCard/O’Club card I had to go to the Outdoor Recreation office to pay. This was to my advantage as (1) I got to use my card that gives me five times the Reward points for using the card on base than using it off base; (2) I got to use one of my “free camping” coupons from the Air Force’s Frequent Camper program; and (3) showing that I am a Club member gave me an additional 10% off the total price. So, where the normal cost for our 11 day stay would have been $198.00, I paid only $162.00 --- not a bad deal. This FamCamp appears to be pretty busy as RVs kept coming and going all weekend and all the sites were full.
The gas and diesel is a lot cheaper here than it was at Eielson or Fairbanks. Regular Unleaded is $2.88 here vs $3.13 at Eielson and diesel is $3.28 vs $3.58. We’ll need to fill up with gas, diesel and propane while we’re here.
While Julieann set up camp I went to the office to pay and then drove around to see what I remembered of the base. Turned out that the Exchange, Commissary and gas station had moved from one side of the base to the other side, which was good for us since the FamCamp is on the side of the base they all moved to. I went by the “People Center” to see if anyone was still there that I knew and ended up spending an hour talking to someone who had heard of me over the years and found out that we knew a lot of the same people. Since we, once again, do not have TV reception at the FamCamp, I also went looking for the Base Library to check out their DVD movie collection. I took almost two hours to find the Library since Elmendorf has given up its Library and everyone uses the one on Fort Richardson, down the road about three miles. I guess the same “shared services” will be on the Pearl Harbor/Hickam AFB contract soon.
We also don’t have Wi-Fi at the FamCamp, but they do at the Food Court in the BX. I received an email from one friend letting me know that another friend that I hadn’t seen in many years was here so I looked him up; we’ll be “doing lunch” soon.
Today is my 65th birthday (yeah, made it!) and Julieann made it very special. She made my favorite breakfast and then loaded me down with all kinds of new clothes (as if a retiree needs that many clothes). She also gave me a new wallet with a matching key case with the wallet containing $100.00 in cash. I then took us to see the Lipizzaner Stallions at the Anchorage Sports Arena – I knew she would love to see these horses and I was right. To watch them dance in actual time with the music was something to see. (Double-click on the movie icon)
After the show we looked for a restaurant to have dinner. I voted for a Korean Restaurant as I thought Julieann should be going through Korean-food withdrawal by now, but Julieann insisted that on MY birthday we needed to eat steak, so we ended up at an Outback for steak, which she paid for. I also received a few birthday emails from friends and birthday phone calls from our daughters. When we were at the Outback I asked the waitress if they had anything special for birthday people and she asked if it was my birthday. I let her listen to my daughters “singing” phone message wishing me a happy birthday and she thought Lona was my granddaughter – three year old granddaughter :o) (We didn’t waste any money on singing lessons for our daughters, but we still love to hear them “sing” anyway)Yeah, had a pretty good birthday.When I mentioned “Lipizzaner Stallions” to some of you I got from “oooooo-wow” to “what???” so here is your history lesson for today:
United States 2nd Cavalry Rescued Rare and Noble Lipizzaner Stallions
This year, 2009, we proudly celebrate the 63rd Anniversary of both General Patton and the US 2nd Cavalry's rescue of the Lipizzan breed. In April 1945, the heroic efforts of the 42nd Squadron of the United States Army's 2nd Cavalry were responsible for the rescue and ultimate preservation of the Lipizzans. The rescue of the horses was conducted under the orders of General George S. Patton and was carried out under the direct command of Colonel Charles H. Reed.
The story of the rescue operation is most dramatic. In early 1945, Vienna was under attack by allied bombers. Colonel Alois Podjahsky, head of the famed Spanish Riding School in Vienna, feared the valuable Lipizzaner Stallions would be destroyed and arranged for the stallions to be transferred by train to St. Martin's in Upper Austria, 200 miles from Vienna. Fodder was scarce and starving refugees attempted to steal the horses for food.
Coincidentally, elements of the U.S. Third Army moved into St. Martin's at the time Podhajsky had quartered the horses there at the estate of a friend. An American officer recognized Podhajsky and the stallions, and sent word to General Patton's headquarters. Patton and Podhajsky had been old friends as they had competed together in equestrian events at the Olympic Games.
Podhajsky arranged to show the Lipizzans to Undersecretary of War Robert Patterson, and General Patton the following day. Patterson and Patton were so impressed by the performance of these aristocratic white horses that the General, at the request of Podhajsky, promised to make the stallions wards of the U.S. Army until they could be safely returned to their home at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna.
While the stallions were sheltered at St. Martin's, the mares and foals had been separated from the stallions and were being held at the German Remount Depot in Hostau, Czechoslovakia. American forces became aware of their location through Colonel Reed.
On April 26, 42nd Squadron captured a German general and his staff near Hostau. Reed and the General dined together and developed a friendship. The General showed Reed photographs of the Lipizzaner horses. When questioned further, the General confessed that the horses were being held at the German Remount Depot along with allied prisoners of war who cared for the horses.
Later that day Reed contacted Patton to ask permission to attack Hostau to liberate the prisoners and horses. Permission was granted. Later, an agreement was made with the Germans to allow American forces to go into Hostau and rescue the horses from the oncoming Russian troops. German officers, great admirers of the Lipizzans, willingly cooperated with the Americans fearing that approaching Russian troops would destroy the breed.
On April 28, members of Troops A, C and F of the 42nd Squadron attacked the German lines and accepted the surrender of the Germans at Hostau. The surrender, according to Reed, was "more a fiesta than a military operation, as the German troops drew up an honor guard and saluted the American troops as they came in."
The Americans found at Hostau a population of some 150 Lipizzans, including a few stallions, mares and their colts of two and three years of age. The first day was spent inspecting the horses. Two days later, German SS troops organized a counter attack on the 42nd Squadron as it moved eastward along the Czechoslovakian border. The Germans were driven off and a week later, the war had ended. Plans were then made for the disposition of the horses.
Colonel Podhajsky was flown in to inspect his horses. It was at this time that the Russian and Czech governments argued over possession of the horses. To prevent the horses from falling into their hands, the Lipizzans were quickly moved across the border to safety in Germany. Shortly thereafter, the Lipizzans were returned to the control of Colonel Podhajsky at Linz.
General Patton was not the first to rescue the Lipizzans from the exigencies of war. In 1781, during the Napoleonic Wars, 300 horses were evacuated in a forty-day march to Stuhlweissenburg. They returned to Lipizza after peace was established. In 1805 they were moved again to Slavonia, and in 1806 to Karad, a Hungarian village with a population of less than 4,000. They returned to Lipizza, only to flee the advancing armies of France.
The Lipizzaner Stallion has galloped boldly out of the pages of 400 years of European history into the hearts of millions of Americans. Walt Disney's motion picture, The Miracle of the White Stallions, depicting the rescue of the horses by General Patton's men during World War II, did much to publicize and to create sympathy and admiration for the Lipizzaners in the United States.
The Lipizzaners were not actually taught to dance and do the tricks they do just for shows. These were things they were taught centuries ago to use in battle, such as the jumping kick used against opponents and the side-step walk. We also learned that only the Stallions, the males, can do these maneuvers because the females’ center-of-gravity is different than the males – very interesting stuff.
Today we had lunch with an old friend from Hawaii, Erica Kubik. Her husband and I worked together over seven years ago at Hickam, but he is currently TDY to Australia. We’ll get to see him on the return trip to Elmendorf next month (after we visit some sites down south). Erica took us to an outstanding Mexican restaurant. I’m not much of a Mexican-food eater, but the dishes Julieann and I had were really great. We made out even more when Erica supplied Julieann with some Salmon and Halibut from the Kubik freezer (Bill is a hunter/fisherman extraordinaire and his freezer is always well stocked). When we returned to the RV, I found something else to do, such as check email and surf the net at the BX Food Court, while Julieann cooked half of her fish (leaving the other half frozen for later) and then aired out the RV. She is very considerate of my seafood allergy.
It’s been raining almost daily so we have been confined to do “inside” things. Today the weather looked promising so we ventured into Anchorage for a little walk-around (AKA “tourist shopping”). Downtown Anchorage has a lot to see. We visited an Ulu factory and saw how these Alaskan-native knives are made and used. They have found some dating back 1000BC so they’ve been around awhile. I also learned that there are two, very distinctive and different types that originate from two different native Alaskan tribes. I couldn’t talk Julieann into using one if I bought it, but that didn’t stop her from spending $30.00 on a belt for me that had “Alaska” stamped on it.
Behind the Ulu factory was a stream (Ships Creek) that locals fish in so we had to watch them for awhile. They tell me that only the silver and red salmon are running now (like I would know the difference). These salmon, like all others, swim up-stream to spawn. The fishermen cast their line into the swift moving river in the hopes that the fish will “inhale” the lure and hook. We saw one man catch a fish only to release it. Julieann asked why and, me, being so knowledgeable about fishing (NOT!) told her that either the fish was under the legal size or the man was just a sports fisherman who catches and releases (not a bad guess, I thought). Later on, just to verify my answers, I asked a couple of other observers who are actually fishermen why that man had released his fish and was given another reason. The fish must be one that is “in season” – allowed to be caught – and must be hooked in the mouth. If a fisherman casts his line and “snags” the fish somewhere outside of the mouth (tail, body, etc) this is an illegal catch and he must release the fish. Also, he cannot just toss a line with a hook on it – the hook must be camouflaged with some kind of lure or even a piece of yarn. Interesting stuff for this non-fisherman.
Tried to take Julieann to the base museum of wildlife where they display numerous local animals that have be stuffed and donated to the museum by local hunters. I remember a grizzly bear in there that, at the time (early 1990’s), was almost a world record. Evidently, the bear’s total height, weight, and claws were all of record-breaking proportions, but the head was slightly smaller than the reining record. A former Personnel NCOIC brought it down with six shots of very large caliber bullets. As we approached the building we saw people standing outside. Evidently, it was still locked. I asked what the posted hours were and one man replied “They’re open from 3:00 to 4:30.” Since it was already 3:30 I figured whoever was suppose to open the door wasn’t coming in today. We’ll try again some other day.
Today was also a pretty nice day so we went downtown to walk around the Saturday Market -- Basically two rows of booths with folks selling Alaskan (or made in China copies) stuff and a half row of folks selling eating stuff. We enjoyed the roasted corn on, what we considered, a “cool” day – although the locals are running around in T-shirts and shorts.
Almost daily I stop by the AAFES Food Court to use the Wi-Fi to check email. Half the time it isn’t working and none of the employees seem to know anything about it so I’ve taken upon myself to reboot the router every time I see it isn’t working, normally to the cheers of other customers also trying to connect to the internet. I also (sometimes) get something to eat or drink while I’m “working”. While using the Wi-Fi today I was a little thirsty so I went to the nearest concession and asked for a “senior” drink. Every other AAFES Food Court we’ve visited in our travels offer seniors a discounted coffee or soft drink the same as McDonald’s or Burger King, but not at the Elmendorf AAFES Food Court. Even the concession manager said that she was surprised when she arrived here because they had senior drinks at her last station in Alabama. So, AAFES strikes another blow for making more money at the expense of the GI; this time “elder” GIs – well done AAFES………. …………..NOT!!!
We left Elmendorf today for a two-day trip down South to the fishing town of Seward. Elmendorf has a small operation there with cabins, RV and tent sites. I was able to get a reservation for two days without any problem. We had a nice three-hour drive except for the 40 minute delay for road construction and then my GPS trying to get me to drive into the water.
We arrived in late afternoon on a sunny, actually, beautiful day. After we checked into the Military Recreation Center we parked and walked around close to the coastline to find a restaurant for dinner. Took some nice photos, again, and checked out the local tour companies. The best tour offered was not available for the only day we were going to be there, so we passed on the guided tour and decided to check out one of the glaciers nearby tomorrow.
This morning we woke up to a very cloudy day. The clouds were so low it felt as though we could touch them and the mountain across the street was well hidden by the low hanging clouds. I drove back to where I saw a sign coming into town yesterday directing us to the “Exit Glacier”, so named by explorers who were walking on the massive ice and were looking for a way off; they used this glacier to reach land. As we finished our four-mile walk, up and down mountains to see the glacier, we needed a short rest at the Visitors’ Center. We can’t get over the fantastic scenery we see daily in this cold state. Just something about the combination of water (rivers, lakes, etc), hills/mountains, and green trees with scattered colored flowers. When the mountain is topped off by some snow or ice or we see some animals walking by it’s just a big plus. If you think we post a few too many “scenic” photos, you’re probably correct, but remember, I’m only posting less than 10% of the photos my co-pilot takes :o)
We then began driving back town when I spotted a bear walking along the side of the river which ran parallel with our road. Of course, we had to stop and get a few photos and then the bear crossed the river to our side. We lost sight of him/her because of the trees and bushes so we continued driving down the road. I saw a pullout that gave us a view of the river so I stopped there thinking the bear may pass this way even though our view up-river was still blocked with trees. Unless the bear re-entered the water and walked directly in front of us, we wouldn’t see him/her, but we chose to wait around 30 minutes to see what happened. Evidently, the car behind us had the same idea with one, major, exception. We stayed in the car with the motor running “just in case” Mr/Mrs Bear took offense at our intrusion. The four young people in the other car parked their car on the street and walked to the river’s edge to look down the river, but the trees and bushes hid the view from them also. So, one of the brave (STUPID) young men decided to enter the woods to see if he could see where the bear went. He finally returned after awhile, empty-handed (to match his empty HEAD), and they all left, but I’m sure we’ll be reading about him in the paper sometime in the near future under the headline of “ANOTHER DUMB-ASS TOURIST GETS EATEN BY A HUNGRY BEAR”.
We continued driving towards town and the rains started. Good timing as we had planned to spend the afternoon inside at the Seward Sea Life Center. Even using our military discount the tickets were a bit pricey – $38.00 – but, we enjoyed walking around and looking at all the sea life and getting educated (but, I still can’t figure out the difference between a Sea Lion and a Seal).
We returned to the RV under even more rain. I went to the office where I have access to Wi-Fi and caught up on my email and “Grandma Julieann” took a nap. While at the office I overheard a conversation between the desk clerk and a couple looking for a RV spot for one night. Remember, this is a military location we are parked in that is supposedly open to active, retired and reserve military and DoD civilians. Here’s the conversation:
Customer: Do you have a level RV spot for the night?
Clerk: I don’t know anything about leveling, but we have some spots open and you can choose the one you want. Do you have a military ID card?
Customer: Oh, this is just for military? Well, I used to be in the military and am a member of the VFW.
Clerk: Good enough.
So I’m thinking, O.K., I don’t see a problem with renting out a RV site that hasn’t been reserved by someone WITH a military ID card (they do have to make money, yeah?), but why even question the customer’s military status? Just rent it out. Saying that having a VFW membership card is the same as having an active, retired, reserve or DoD ID card just doesn’t seem right to me.
We drove back to Elmendorf, in the rain for most of the way. We stopped at Birds Creek to watch about 20 fishermen trying their luck at the Salmon entering the creek heading upstream. There was a large sign stating that catching King Salmon was not allowed here. We saw many fishermen catch a fish only to release it back into the water. I believe this was because of what I was told earlier, they didn’t hook the fish properly. Most of what could see thrown back were caught by the fin or tail or some other part of the fish’s body, not through the mouth. But, I did see a fish that appeared to have been caught by the mouth and the fisherman released the fish anyway; maybe that was a King Salmon? I guess I never learn the rules to fishing here.
When we got back to Elmendorf we found the RV FamCamp had a lot of empty spaces, including the one we used during our last stay so we are right back where we were. I went to the BX Food Court to check email, etc., while Julieann finished setting up the RV and took a nap. It rained the rest of the day and all through the night so it was definitely napping weather.
We woke up the next morning to more rain. Oh yeah, saw a joke that hit home – A wife asked her retired husband what he was going to do today. He replied, “Nothing”. She said “You did that yesterday!” He said, “I wasn’t finished yet.” I told you that to tell you this. We were discussing what we were going to do today. (It is now almost 10AM and we are just waking up):
I said, “After breakfast I’m going to take a shower, then put the computer and Library DVDs in the car. I’ll make a quick stop at the food court to check on a “secret shopper” assignment they want done today to see if I got the assignment. Then we’ll drive up to the Temple to see what their hours are so you can visit the Temple next week and if I got the secret shopper assignment we’ll knock that out in 30 minutes on the way home. Then we’ll come back to base and go to the library for more DVDs. Out last stop will be the hospital’s pharmacy (right across the street from the RV park) to check on your prescriptions. How’s that sound?”
Julieann replies, “I think that is too much for one day.”
Have we been retired that long???
It is now the “next day” and I only accomplished half of what I had planned for yesterday……go figure. I left with the computer and DVDs with the right intentions, but Julieann wanted a little “cook fish” time without me around so she asked that I stay away for awhile longer than planned before returning to take her downtown. I went to the Food Court and saw that the Secret Shopper assignment was given to someone else (I was too slow in requesting it), so I just took my time on the computer until the battery was just about gone. I then went to the Library to return the old DVDs and to check out some new ones. I felt that I still hadn’t been away long enough for “fishy smell” to be out of the RV so I stopped by a friend’s office. As usual, Tony Kobulson was just hanging around BSing with another co-worker so I didn’t interrupt anything important by plopping down on his office sofa to “talk story”. I was there around 30 minutes when I mentioned that I had told my wife that I would be gone an hour and its already been three hours so I better start thinking about going back to the RV. Just then my cell phone rang and it was my life-partner yelling into the phone about how long I had been gone, that she was worried, where am I, what am I doing, etc., etc. loud enough for Tony and Steve to hear everything she was saying from across the room. We all had a good laugh ---- well, at least THEY had a good laugh --- and I returned to the RV for the face-to-face continuation of my butt chewing. It’s times like this that I really miss Christine, my step-daughter. Normally, you’ll only hear and see Julieann yelling at two people; Christine and me, just about no one else. I’ve had “my turn” for over four months so I can’t wait to get home so Christine can have HER turn. In fact, I’m thinking that we’ve been gone so long that Julieann may need to move in with Christine for a few weeks for some Mother-Daughter bonding, yeah? Sounds good to me – I could always visit her once in awhile, once my hearing returns :o)
Since I didn’t get the Secret Shopper assignment, “I” had no reason to drive downtown and Julieann didn’t mention anything in her yelling about taking her to the Temple. So we walked across the street to the Hospital to pick up her prescriptions. Funny thing we’ve noticed about Air Force and Army pharmacies – Air Force Pharmacies will not honor a prescription from any doctor for any medications that can be purchased over-the-counter somewhere downtown. I can see their point, though. Why should the AF pay for something anyone can buy at anytime so they are only concerned about paying for medications that really are “prescription” drugs. I guess the Army will figure that out when their budget is cut again.
Today we went back to downtown Anchorage for more tourist stuff. Saw a movie on bear life in Alaska and the Iditarod (annual dog sled race). Visited a house built by the 18th white man to live in Anchorage, Oscar Anderson. He got tired (and probably COLD) living in a tent so he built a house in 1915, settled down and started a few businesses in Anchorage. Lived and worked here for the rest of his life, marrying and raising three children. We took a trolley tour around the city and found out that we had seen just about everything there was to see except for the “world’s largest water plane lake”. This lake is totally dedicated to water planes, as in “no boats allowed.” There is a nine year waiting list to get a plane parking spot on the water and then the rent is only $100 a month. Alaska has about 60,000 private planes registered, which makes sense since most of the towns or lakes in Alaska have very poor, if any, roads, but plenty of lakes.
When we returned home to our nice, warm RV we saw our first “bull” Moose; right next to the RV camp munching on some trees recently cut down. We took a few pictures, of course, and then I had to drag Julieann back to the RV. She’s the only person I know that tries to direct her photo subject into a certain position, stance or get it to smile. Some animals put up with it, but I think the Moose was about ready to pound her. We were in the RV for a very short time when our neighbors were jumping up and down in front of our windows trying to get our attention. It seemed that the Moose had wandered right next to our RV and was enjoying another tree for dinner under our bedroom window (or maybe he was just looking for Julieann.....hmmmmmmm -- I'll be keeping an eye on him from now on). Of course, Ms Cecil B. Photographer grabbed her camera and ran outside --- just trying to get her head stomped in! She finally came back in when the Moose continued his journey. Something about “leave the animals alone or they will hurt you” just doesn’t seem to sink in for some people.
We went to Bill & Erica’s home for a spaghetti dinner and floor show. The floor show was watching Erica try to make dinner while supervising three boys and four dogs (Bill wasn’t any help at all -- my hero). Great dinner, great time and we walked away with full tummies, some Caribou Stew Meat and more fish for Julieann. We had an even better time trying to get a Kubik family photo for our blog. Here’s a short video to give you an idea (Double-click on the movie icon):
With all the rain we’ve been having the mushrooms are all in full bloom. Now, you all know that I don’t know one mushroom from another (unless it comes in a can), but Julieann had a great time taking their photos and trying to explain to me which one was for eating, which for medicine, which for poison, etc.. Our friendly neighborhood squirrel also had a great time. We watched him over a four day period trying to get this huge mushroom up the tree into his nest. He would move it up a few branches and then leave it there for the next day, assumingly when he got his strength back, then move it a few more branches. After four days he finally got it into his winter food locker.
When we first arrived at Elmendorf I wanted to “check out” the clubs, both NCO and Officer to see what they had to offer. Tony mentioned that the O’Club is pretty much dead, even on a Friday, and suggested we go to the NCO Club for their free food and entertainment. We arrived at the NCO Club a little after 5PM on a Friday and joined the crowd of nine who were munching on the free food consisting of taco chips, salsa, tater tots and stuffed jalapenos – hold me back!! We stayed for one drink. Tonight (Saturday) we decided to attend Comedy Night at the club. There was a crowd of around 30 folks – typical Club participation, yeah? The headliner was actually a guy who gained fame on American Idol seven years ago. Guess he found out he couldn’t sing so he’s trying comedy. He was o.k., but Julieann would have been happier without all the four letter words.
This morning, Monday, we packed up for a trip down South to the Kenai Peninsula. We stopped by the base gas station and filled up both vehicles (gas has gone up .20 cents a gallon in the last two weeks). Drove a mile to the gate and a “Warning” light came on my dashboard. A few seconds later a “Stop” light came on. Luckily there is a new shopping mall right outside the gate so I had a place to pull into. Called my friendly “Good Sam” Road Assistance and they were their usual helpful selves. A mechanic showed up within an hour and immediately found my problem – broken fan belt. As I type this we are waiting for him to pick up the new belt, come back and install it.
It is now FIVE hours later and the mechanic has finally finished the repair. He had to make four trips to NASA Auto Parts for the right size belt. These things must have been made in China since the package stated the belt’s size was 72 5/8”, but when we measured it the size was exactly 72” – too short. I felt sorry for the guy because he worked so hard and was so BIG to be crawling under our RV. We had to clean out the closet and open the access panel so he could reach parts of the engine he couldn’t reach from underneath. He may have been a good mechanic, but he sure was dirty and sloppy. See the photo of our closet where he left a deposit of oil all over our carpet – Julieann was not happy, but didn’t say anything to him….we just wanted to get on the road.
After he left I drove to the end of the parking lot and as I made the turn for the street I looked at the side-view mirror to check that the Jeep was following me correctly and saw a huge bellow of smoke. I immediately stopped, walked behind the RV and saw oil spraying out of the back; smoke was caused by the oil hitting the hot exhaust pipe. I called the company, who had the mechanic on the other phone. When I told the owner what happened, she relayed what I said to the mechanic and he said “I know exactly what happened.” He came back in 20 minutes and fixed the problem in less than five minutes. He said that he moved “something” that was in his way before and forgot to put it back. No big thing except we didn’t get to our next stop, Kenai, until almost 10 PM.
More to follow……………
