Disney world at LijiangNov 2, 2009
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Dear all
Well after a long day flying, first to kunming and then to Lijiang we are here in northern Yunnan province. The naxi are the minority group around this area though there are lots of Han Chinese too.They wear their local costumes but it all feels very commercial - good on them, may they make a million - but there is something demeaning or voyeuristic about the way that people cluster around to take photos of the naxi who come to the square to dance or who have to sit in their shop all day weaving in their national costume - all just for the tourists. I don't know why i feel uncomfortable about this because a bit of stuff for the tourists never bothers me - here it just feels odd. Perhaps because the whole of the old town cocoons you in something unreal, that is only there for tourists.
The old town is totally taken up with one shop after another selling scarves, bone combs (yaks' horns), silver and jade jewellery, yak's meat that is semi dried and coated in spices and has a sickly pungent smell, and little restaurants (nice food). Once night comes a street of bars fires up and music blares hideously.
We are fortunate to have found through Trip Advisor a great little court yard house with a lovely comfy room and warm doonas (it's freezing!) and once again the most delightful helpful people. Most important of all it right away from the bar street! Only $25 per night and so nice.
Today we accidentally walked out of the old town and were quite relieved to emerge into the hurley burley of a modern city. The old town is very pretty with old style courtyard buildings, shuttered windows, turned up half tube tile roofs and gushing streams running through channels along the sides of streets, stone bridges, water wheels, willows lining the streets, no cars. What's to complain about?
JH has low tolerance for this kind of thing so i left him to do internetting and went off shopping by myself today and bought some nice pressies for people. Tomorrow we are off to Tiger Leaping Gorge - just a look because i don't want to risk my head getting worse again and to visit a couple of nearby villages.
Best wishes to you all
Joan
