Ayutthaya to Chiang Mai

The train from Bangkok took a little over an hour to get to Ayutthaya, the old capital of Siam. It was a nice comfortable , air-conditioned carriage with plenty of leg room. Upon arrival we were, once again ambushed by the ubiquitous Tuk Tuk driver almost demanding that we pay him to take us around Ayutthaya. Charoen (the Tuk Tuk driver) went through great pains to explain to us that he wasn't trying to rip us off and that the rate he was asking was the standard rate. He even pulled out his little book with recommendations written in it from foreign customers (all from about three years ago of course).

This time, unfortunately for Charoen, Justine was ready for him! flatly refusing his, what I thought, reasonable offer she went into a great story about how much she was looking forward to cycling around Ayutthaya and that any price was too much. You could visibly see Charoen was getting anxious as he could see that his hook was slipping away. Justine upped the pressure and told him that she was very fit and that she loved the heat. All the time Charoen was realising that he wasn't dealing with just another easy farang mark. The price quickly plummeted and Charoen had to settle for much less than originally asked.

After visiting about three Wats, we realised that there was no way we would have been able to cycle to, let along find, the ruins in the Ayutthaya heat. Smiling to each other, we knew we had maybe, actually ripped off a Tuk Tuk driver, but I doubt it somehow.

The train ride to Pittsonulok (our next destination) was vastly different from the one we had been on to Ayutthaya. Not only was the air-conditioning missing, but the speed had almost halved. At first the ride was quite exhilirating with the open windows allowing the tropical breeze to caress our sweating brows. We weren't even bothered by the broken seats we were sitting on or the dust coming in. This all changed once dusk had hit. The insects started coming out to play and splattering through the not so exhilirating open windows. All manner of creepy crawlies were covering our, by now, uncomfortably sticky and filthy clothing. By the time the train pulled in to Pittsonulok station we were cursing the Thai railway system and 'Jackie Chan', our travel agent, in Bangkok.

We decided to walk to the hotel from the station as it was only a couple of blocks away. Bad idea! I was positive in which direction the hotel lay. Alas I was incorrect. We only discovered this after 15 minutes of fruitless walking with our 20 kg packs on our backs. Ready for BF number two, Justine decided to ask a couple of locals from a nearby house. Like most Thais, they spoke 'little English' and a few minutes later the very kind man offered to take us on his motorbike to the hotel. After two trips, one for me and one for Justine, we were deposited outside our intended destination. After refusing our offer of payment for his generosity, he was blazing off into the darkness without giving us a name to remember him by. The people in Thailand are extraordinarily generous and don't hesitate in offering you help. It must come from their Buddhist belief that to give is to cleanse your spirit for the next life. It is only the people who make their living from tourists that want to rip you off. Don't believe people who try to tell you that all Thai people are out to separate you from your money as we were told by a couple of fellow travellers.

The next day, after a misunderstanding at the hotel regarding our transportation, we were forced to take the nearest means of getting to the bus station. This happened to be in the form on an octigenarian rikishaw rider. Here we were, with around 180 kg between us, and an old man who probably only weighed about 45 kg all discussing in broken english as to whether we could all fit on his little rikishaw. He assurred us we could, we weren't so sure. Even if we could I didn't believe that he could possibly push those chicken legs off his hard enough to get the wheels moving. He did it though! All along the way people were pointing and laughing at the farang all squashed up in this little rikishaw. At the station, I gave him a little extra as he surely had earned it.

The bus trip to Chiang Mai was fairly uneventful except that it nearly left without me at one of the stops. Once in Chiang Mai we were met by our travel agent, Noot, who took us to our hotel and briefed us about the three day trek ahead. Then it was out to the famous night bazaar which Justine found pretty impressive. Will probably buy something when we get back from our trek. If we get back!!

27 May 2005

Show all 5 photos